By Jeanette Tran
to Tommy and Anton
Get the Ham, Head Cheese, and Pâté, a.k.a. Special Cold Cut Combination, or Ðặc Biệt for short. Chicken is fine for the less adventurous, but only old people order shredded pork floss or sardines.
If the sandwich is for later, ask for đồ chua on the side. The eternally forty-something-year-old woman with black hair will stow the daikon, carrots, cilantro, and jalapeño in a small plastic baggie, secured with a knotted rubber band. If she sighs at your pronunciation, pay her no mind.
When your Vietnamese high school friends decide on bánh mì for lunch, play along, even if you know leaving campus is strictly forbidden. You will never find friends like these again. Beautiful with sun-bronzed napes, they eat the contraband bánh mì on the concrete steps of the admin building. Flimsy white deli paper conceals the feast until all that remains is a sprinkle of French breadcrumbs.
Once you abandon California for school, a spouse, a job, and a house to raise your own children, you will realize it is impossible to find really good bánh mì anywhere else, even after, or because, bánh mì has gone mainstream. Visit as often as you can to see family and eat exquisite bánh mì. If your flight leaves after 9 a.m., Grandpa can buy you a sandwich for the layover. “Extra pâté,” he will remember to say. When he pushes the additional quarter, the price of your extravagance, across the stainless-steel counter, it will have weight.
Jeanette Tran resides in Des Moines, Iowa. She is currently writing a memoir, How to Murder Your Vietnamese Husband, a personal history of Vietnamese marriage. Her personal essays have appeared or are forthcoming in The Smart Set, The Coachella Review, and Apogee.
Image by Amy Tran courtesy of Unsplash
What a lovely essay on the lasting connections we can make with our taste buds. The cultural flavors of banh mi sing across the years and miles.
I love this homage to my favorite sandwich – and high school friendship. I discovered Bánh Mì sandwiches much later in life, in a little yellow house cafe in San Leandro, California. When I became a vegetarian, I mourned the loss of Bánh Mì sandwiches. I tried veggie Bánh Mì occasionally, but none ever came close. Nine months ago, a new Bánh Mì sandwich shop opened up in the Inner Sunset district of San Francisco, where I live. Oh my! Pure heaven.
The new website is so beautiful. I always enjoy every single short story too.
JT, am delighted to see these new directions in your writing—you are amazing! This piece gave me a sense of home, even though the homes I grew up in and the tensions inherent in those places are very different. In other words, your writing is tremendously evocative. Grrat to see your work in River Teeth!