By Lisa VanderVeen
Dusk at Kathmandu’s Pashupatinath Temple is monkeys. Settling into the November chill, succumbing to the dark vignette of the horizon, this time is theirs.
The monkeys don’t care about doorways marked “Hindus only.” Spirituality is a privilege. They choose their doorways, whichever they please, whichever they need, amongst the myriad, carved stone temples. They live in parallel time to the humans, a synchronistic happenstance. I envy their non-attachment, struggling to make sense of my own newly-minted midlife divorce, re-writing chapters that I thought were finished long ago.
The monkeys are immune to young couples stealing away to steep themselves in the romance of this place. Girls giggle and gaze, looking down and away from the longing eyes of their puffed-up suitors. The monkeys’ trysts are less polite. They take what they need, as did my husband, ordering prostitutes from a menu at a luxury hotel in Singapore, the way one might order a cocktail.
The monkeys ignore the screeching human children in favor of their own clinging young, babies holding fiercely to teat and belly. The human babies won’t die tonight. Monkey mothers have no such guarantee. I pray fervently for my daughter’s safety after a dear friend lost hers.
The monkeys are immune to the spiritual power of this sacred place, where bodies are burned beside the gloppy, plastic bottle-filled Bagmati river. They don’t watch with wailing grief, as the fire dies and the wood and ash are shoveled into the river. They die here too, without fanfare.
Lisa VanderVeen is a School Administrator by day and a travel writer by night. She enjoys stretching outside her comfort zone, adventuring in over 45 countries (often solo) and pursuing her many hobbies which include photography, running, memory keeping, and hiking.
Image by Aryan Bhattarai courtesy of Unsplash
This piece by Lisa VanderVeen paints a picture of Kathmandu’s Pashupatinath Temple at dusk, where monkeys roam freely. Despite the chaos of human emotions and personal struggles, the monkeys seem unaffected, living in their own world.
The author reflects on her recent divorce and the challenges of rewriting her life’s story. She contrasts the monkeys’ carefree existence with the complexities of human relationships and tragedies.
Great piece I really enjoyed reading it. Thank you!
I have dug deeper into my spirituality over the last few years and it has made such a beautiful and meaningful impact for the better on my life and the people in my life. I cherish every day so much more than I ever have before. I too worry for my future children and their safety praying god protects them from the evil in the world. Isn’t it so beautiful how animals get to live freely yet how beautiful it is we too have the choice of who we want to be in life. Thank you for your post!